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A desire to transform culinary delights into
visual masterpieces was the force behind the creation of the
versatile mould, which master chefs began using as early as the 14th
century. Indeed in medieval times, when life was harsh, moulded
foods graced banquet tables, helping to transform dining from a
necessity into an event. Jellies, made from the gelatin producing
parts of animals bodies—hooves, sheep’s heads, and antlers—were
boiled down for hours, then run through a sieve and flavored with
spices, sugar, and lemon. Fantastic accounts of their presentation
tell us they were elaborate confections assuming the shapes of swans
or peacocks, served adorned with natural feathers and gilded beaks.
Later, in the mid-18th century, women used fresh flowers and fruits
to augment the beauty of moulded creations for decoration only,
known as conceits. Early on it was clear that, in a manner
unparalled by almost any other kitchen device, the mould had
elevated cooking to an imaginative art form, sparking a competition
to make foods look, as well as taste, appealing.
Though moulds can be made from a wide variety of materials,
including wood, glass, tin, and pewter, it was probably the ceramic
jelly mould, originally brought over from Germany to England in the
1670s, which first gained common, widespread use. The manufacturing
of the later variation, the salt-glazed stoneware moulds made either
by press moulding or slip-casting, was perfected by two brothers,
Thomas and John Wedgwood, who pioneered the methods and who reigned
as masters of the craft throughout the mid 18th century, fueling a
demand for increasingly elaborate designs. A vast majority of the
Wedgwood moulds were marked, often imprinted with the date, initials
or name of their master block-cutter, Ralph Wood.
Some of the earliest moulds were made of pewter—an alloy of tin with
either lead or copper added—and date back to the 13th century when
Marco Polo introduced milk-based ice cream to the West from China.
By the early 1700s, the English were pouring semi-frozen ice cream
into pewter moulds for final freezing. To make the moulds ice, salt,
and air tight, a thin layer of lard or wax was applied to the
joints. In the 1830s, the copper mould became popular with the
development of close-plating and tinning, which safeguarded against
verdigris poisoning. By the middle of that century, copper moulds,
which had started out in basic circular, oval, or rectangular forms
with embossed tops, appeared in a dazzling array of shapes, designs,
and sizes as the ornamentation of food became exceptionally
important. Classic shapes such as fish, shells, flowers, fruits, and
celestial bodies emerged in ornate designs. The finest estates
listed their inventories of moulds as among their most prized
possessions.
Many of the best copper moulds bear impressed names, most of those
representing the retailer rather than the manufacturer. The names
were stamped on by the manufacturer, with retailers frequently
owning their own blocks to commemorate a special occasion, such as a
coronation or a jubilee. Later moulds often bear registration marks
or serial numbers, and sometimes have engraved initials or full
names for easy identification and return after the requisite
re-tinning.
For the collector of antique moulds, the early salt-glazed
earthenware pieces are highly prized by those who love 18th century
pottery. If pewter ice moulds are among the rarest, it is the early
copper pieces that command the highest prices. Those bearing
initials (particularly those with royal lineage) have extra value,
but even a retailer’s mark helping to date the piece increases
worth. While visible seams are unattractive, a slightly worn and
uneven patina, indicating signs of hand polishing, is an asset.
Possibly the most attractive aspect of buying and collecting moulds
is that, given the proper conditioning and care, they are truly
useable. In the Victorian era, copper moulds were cleaned using a
paste of turpentine and brick dust on a flannel cloth, and then
polished with dry brick dust and leather. These days, owners can
purchase gentle, highly effective polishes from a reputable dealer.
Keep in mind that any copper mould intended for re-use must be
re-tinned to prevent copper poisoning. And remember, as Eve
recommends, “purchase something that you will actually use so that
you will be able to enjoy your purchase to its fullest. Copper
moulds can be decorative and useful, but most of all they are
architecturally beautiful.”
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